Thursday, July 3, 2008

Fufu for Ma



Caro: 1 - Fufu: 0
(I am still being teased for eating the whole thing!)


Fufu
, also spelled foofoo, foufou, or fu fu, is a staple food of West and Central Africa. It is a thick paste or porridge usually made by boiling starchy root vegetables in water and pounding with a large mortar and pestle until the desired consistency is reached. In Ghana and Nigeria, the ball is often not chewed but swallowed whole. In fact, among the older generation, chewing fufu is a faux pas.

Wednesday, July 2, 2008

Pictures from Mampong

Day 1

Although English is the official language,
many do not speak it well (if at all). In rural areas,
this is true even of kids attending school.


Singing before the exercise


Student group, school 1


Recess

Day 2



The co-working holding my camera
thought this was all very entertaining!


Mercy working her magic

Kiddos

Gender Auditing in Mampong

Last week, Mercy, Abigail, Ohemaa, Nana and I spent two days in Mampong, where we conducted a new type of gender auditing. Mercy (one of my favorite co-workers) recently attended a workshop on gender auditing, a process that evaluates the gender equity and sensitivity of an organization. Her conclusion was that such audits are helpful, but also extremely costly and time-consuming, making them impossible to carry out in most institutions.

She decided to design a new type of gender auditing, modeled on "Participatory Learning and Action," which is used in most of our programs here. Basically PLAs involve discussions with stakeholders to determine the roots of the problem (say of girls' under-enrollment in schools), as well ways to tackle these. The community determines how best to address the issue, and makes a plan of how, when and with what resources they will achieve their targets.

Mercy's idea was to develop a way of conducting an audit rapidly and effectively, without hiring a consultant and asking people to fill out a lengthy survey. In each school, we split staff into two groups, one working with a group of students, and the other with teachers. Unfortunately, I was unable to follow most of the kiddie sessions as they were conducted in Twi. The adult session was very interesting though. Mercy started by asking faculty what the gender situation was in the school. Initially, everyone insisted that the school was very equitable and sensitive with regards to gender. Mercy then asked the teachers what "gender" meant. When they responded "sex," she asked why we had two words for it then, and what the difference was. After much discussion, interested teachers came to explain "gender" in terms of culture, upbringing and social roles, as opposed to the "sex" determined by birth.

Mercy then asked teachers to go through their day, talking about the different roles that boys and girls, and men and women are given both in their homes and at school. As teachers responded, it became apparent that gender roles are very clearly defined. Men pay the bills, weed, put up buildings, discipline children, and pound the fu-fu. Women, on the other hand, cook, clean, sweep, do laundry, fetch water, and take care of children.

Similarly, at school, boys are in charge of cleaning the blackboard and weeding while girls are in charge of sweeping, scrubbing urinals, fetching water, doing dishes and running errands for teachers. Boys are more truant and perform better, particularly in "subjects with figures." They hold most leadership roles, and are more severely punished by teachers. Girls are less confident and assertive, and frequently sleep during class (perhaps a consequence of all their home and school duties!) Teachers pay more attention to boys, assuming that they have more of a future than women.

It was amazing to see Mercy lead the teachers' from their initial conviction of gender sensitivity to the recognition of the very unequal treatment that girls and boys receive. And she did so in a way that was not accusatory or condescending. By the end of the session, teachers seemed eager to change things, as they suggested way to improve the situation, each committing themselves to a specific target, deadline, and monitoring indicators.

Mercy is one of my favorite "aunties" (and I have many here!). She is dedicated and extremely good at what she does.

The trip was also a lot of fun. There were five ladies and a driver in the car to and from Mampong, and within Mampong there were six of us and a driver (Mavis lives in Mampong.) We got "tight" very quickly.

Again, I was quite the attraction in schools and had to go hang out with the kids at times so that they would not disrupt the sessions (I felt pretty foolish). I also ate my first whole fu-fu bowl!!

Monday, June 30, 2008

Conflict in north of Ghana

http://www.irinnews.org/Report.aspx?ReportId=78993

Thursday, June 26, 2008

Akosua on my life

Discussing my limited cooking abilities, she expressed her concern that I would not be able to get married, to which I replied that I would have to find a husband who knows how to cook. Her reaction:
“You are SO white!”

Monday, June 23, 2008

Akosua and Ghanaian Food

Akosua is my ‘little sister,’ the guesthouse manager’s 18-year-old daughter. 'Maamie' as her family calls her, is one of my favorite people here. She has just graduated from a very good high school and is waiting to start university in August.

She speaks better English than most people I have met here and has much in common with the French or American teenager. We are quite an interesting pair of 'sisters': she is very tall, thin and stylish, and takes model-like poses; I am short, have a 'special' style, and am extremely awkward as soon as the camera comes out. (See illustration below, keeping in mind that this was take 3). Nevertheless, we get along very well. Maamie is very kind and funny, and I am learning a lot (beyond cooking) by talking with her. In addition, she really likes to spend time with me, which I appreciate greatly since my social network here is rather limited (other key figures in my 'social life' include Agyemang Sr and Jr, the guesthouse owner and his son!!)



She lives a couple tro-tro rides away from the guest house, at home with her mom and middle brother. Sometimes, however, she stays at the guest house when her dad needs to go out.

The first time we met, we planned a Ghanaian cooking lesson. The next weekend, she gave me a shopping list with approximate prices to ensure that sellers did not take advantage of my obruni-ness, and I went to Kumasi’s Central Market (allegedly the largest open-air market in West Africa) where I purchased the necessary ingredients. Upon my return, we cooked Jolof rice (in amounts that enabled me to eat it for almost the entire week!)























She and her dad invited me to their house the next weekend, where we watched a terrible movie, and cooked “red-red” a combination of fried red plantains (fried in red palm oil) and a bean stew. It was delicious! I really enjoy Ghanaian food…except for Kenkey, which I found extremely un-yummy (it is fermented, and so very bitter.)

Red-Red

I have been invited to cook and stay the night at the house this coming weekend. I’m excited! It is very fun to spend time with Maamie and nice to be in a real home once in a while.

Thursday, June 19, 2008

Emanuel

I met Emanuel my first weekend in Fumesua, the town the office is in. He was a bit surprised at the intense excitement that his shirt caused me (in my defense, I was jetlagged and hadn't had much human contact for a while!), but let me photograph him.

Monday, June 16, 2008

"Obruni, obruni! How are you?"

Irene and Abigail

Obruni is the Twi word for 'white person.'

Wherever I go, the word is yelled at me from all sides. Kids, teenagers, adults and older people all scream it: ‘Obruni! Obruni!’ Kids wave and smile, as they repeat the word. Some variations include: ‘Obruni obruni! How are you?’ ; ‘Hey white lady!’ ; ‘Obruni! Akwaaba! (Welcome).’ Most of the time, the calls won’t cease until I’ve responded to each individual a number of times and, and more often than not, even this won’t do it!

Kids follow me around, often in groups. They smile, observe, laugh, shake my hand, touch my skin, or give me a high five (I once even got a hug!). Frequently, they ask me to ‘snap’ them. Once the camera comes out, countless little people appear, fighting for a spot in the picture.

As I was walking home from the fried rice stand last night, two girls named Abigail and Irene followed me to the guest house. The three of us sat on the front steps. We talked a bit about school and parents, but mainly examined each other’s hair and skin, smiled and laughed. Abi gave me a 'fancy' hairdo. At the end, even though I declined her offer to do her homework for her, she gave me a big hug. Irene, more shy, shook my hand.

At first, all this attention felt strange and a bit embarrassing. And even now, I sometimes wish that I could look less alien, and walk around without creating such a commotion. According to my friends, many people outside of cities are excited about obrunis because while they have heard about them or seen them on TV, they have not come across a live specimen.

Every once in a while, I am ‘Obruni’-ed by a grumpy-faced individual, asked for money, or bugged by someone professing his love to me. Overwhelmingly though, Ghanaians are incredibly welcoming and kind. I have befriended some of the people who live on the street between the guest house and the office, and am greeted daily. One woman calls me “my sister,” the other “my baby.” On Friday night, I was walking home later than I usually do (probably around 9PM!) and one of the older ladies who does not speak English offered to walk me home via a younger translator. I couldn’t believe the kindness.

As one of my coworkers noted, if only Ghanaians received the same welcome abroad!